I was keen to complete as much of the Albanian Connection by train as possible, and as I’d be selecting services on short notice, a rail pass seemed the best way to keep costs down. I’d never been Interrailing before, so it took a while to understand the various options; I hadn’t appreciated I could use it for travel from the UK as well as around mainland Europe, for instance. Given that, a “5 days in 1 month” global ticket was ideal for making my way between Bruges and Bari.
At €318, the standard pass is already a bargain. But for €404, I could upgrade it – and hence most of my rides – to first class. This was not just a matter of nicer surroundings; long-distance / high-speed trains often require reservations, and in peak summer standard class could have sold out well before I even left home. First tends to be quieter, improving both my chances of booking and my experience once aboard. As a solo traveller, I value that many premium carriages are configured as 1-2 seating, and lighter load factors meant I never had to spend hours staring at a stranger.
Obviously no itinerary this complex could be completely smooth sailing; although I never missed a connection, I picked up plenty of delays in Germany and Italy. In Austria, meanwhile, I was downgraded to standard class – with seats seemingly designed for dual use as ironing boards – and on one occasion my train turned out to be a bus! But at the other extreme I spent many an hour in luxurious carriages, and often found myself rolling through stunning scenery. The very best journeys combined both, and I’ve picked out my favourite three.
Zurich to Tenero
I doubt there’s such a thing as a bad Swiss train, but the SOB-operated Traversos are particularly great. The attractive copper-coloured fleet was only brought into service five years ago, and remains immaculate. Reservations are neither necessary nor possible for domestic routes within Switzerland, but boarding at the first station I was able to claim a solo spot at the very back of the carriage. This offered a comfortable seat, a small table, additional storage, and an elevated view out a substantial picture window. That held my attention for much of this two and a half hour excursion – to the detriment of planning the rest of my trip…
Shortly after leaving Zurich the Swiss scenery puts on a show: cloud-wrapped mountains form the backdrop to the perfectly blue waters of lakes Zug and Lucerne, the view punctuated with flashes of grazing cattle, neat villages, or slender church spires. Joining the Reuss river, the climb to Göschenen requires loops and switchbacks through a steep valley, crystal-clear water running over scattered stones.
We took the old Gotthard Tunnel through the Alps – a Victorian marvel which was the world’s longest when constructed, and still marks the second highest point in Switzerland reachable by standard gauge. Emerging at Airolo required an equally dramatic descent, plunging 3000 feet on the way to Bellinzona. We followed the Ticino river all the way to Lake Maggiore: softer station names, a broader valley, and the terracotta roofs of farmhouses giving this portion an Italian accent (although it’s all Swiss).
If I had to pick a favourite from the whole race, this would be it – which was convenient, as a few hours later I took essentially the same journey in reverse. Switzerland could make claim to the best railways in Europe, possibly the world – my only regret is I didn’t manage a single decent photo of this stunning route!
Feldkirch to Graz
The next day’s highlight offered some strong competition, however. Certainly, it won for scale: the run from Feldkirch to Graz clocks in at just under eight hours, all on a single train.
And what a train: I had made an early start to position myself for the once-a-day Transalpin, which includes an observation car as part of first class. Ideally I would have reserved this, but I gambled on availability and although many places were assigned, I managed to grab a solo pair to myself for the whole run. More to the point, I could enjoy use of one of the enormous panoramic windows. These curve to the roof of the carriage – no luggage racks! – and the seats are raised to maximise the view.
The tracks run through valleys separating ranges of the Austrian Alps, which on any other day would make for unbeatable landscapes. Having just travelled at altitude through their Swiss siblings, I feel those just have the edge – but there’s plenty to admire here, from the forested mountains to chocolate-box buildings.
Given the length of the journey, I was glad this train featured a dining car rather than the vending / coffee machine combo of yesterday’s Traverso. This was operated by OBB, whose menus you can find here; the car was decidedly old-school, with freestanding tables and chairs. These were busy at midday, so I sampled the take away menu for lunch. I was able to dine in later on, just before last orders at 5pm (75 minutes before we’d terminate in Graz). Service was pretty slow on both occasions, but it’s not like any of us were in a rush…
The pork schnitzel Kaiser roll was generous, the meat overflowing the bread. Grandma Schueller’s goulash soup – a mix of beef, smoked sausage, root veg and spices – was not as big a portion as the menu promised, but was nonetheless filling and flavourful. Each of my selections was €8, which I felt was fair for hot food served to a captive audience. Definitely the best on-the-go meals I had during this adventure, where nutrition often took a back seat to race progress!
Rimini to Bari
My final train of the trip was one of the best: five hours on a Frecciarossa, the flagship of the Trenitalia fleet. Whilst a first class rail pass won’t get you into the ultra-exclusive executive carriage, you can skip over premium to business class. There the plush leather seats are equipped with headrests, electric recline and power sockets, arranged 1-2 around tables that fold for easier access. Other amenities include a snack box – mine had pesto focaccia, a biscuit and bottled water – plus free Wi-Fi through which you can stream TV, movies and music: it felt more like a flight! There is also a bistro car – most of the hot menu items were unavailable, but I was able to snag the last pizza, a bargain at €4.
Interrailing in Italy requires reservations, for €13 per train; on high-speed lines this includes a mandatory seat reservation. I couldn’t figure out how to change my assignment, which for the first time was to a table for four. I had to share this with another passenger at first, but ultimately ended up with even more space once they departed a couple of stops later.
The sun-drenched coastline rolling past the windows seemed a world away from my Alpine adventures just a few days before. In places there was nothing but water to see out to the horizon, the blue-green Adriatic practically lapping at the tracks; elsewhere beachgoers enjoyed the sands between rail and sea. And on one confusing occasion I looked up from my book to find the view obscured by towering crops! This was a part of Italy I’d never travelled through before, and presented a very different aspect of the country.
A fitting end, then, to a full week of luxury rail experiences. To complete my voyage to Albania, I’d have to switch to a much less familiar mode of transport: an international ferry…
