The destination
My second new country of the year, Luxembourg, continued the diminutive theme I’d started in Monaco. Not much larger than London, and with a completely free public transport network, it seemed realistic to explore a good proportion over a weekend. I was keen to see more than just the capital, but Luxembourg city would inevitably be my base as I roamed from corner to corner.
The journey
Luxembourg has only a single international airport, but it is well served from London. It usually offers the most affordable Club Europe fares of all BA’s destinations; throw in my staff discount and a 75 minute jaunt from Heathrow was the obvious choice.
Instead, I spent nearly a full 24 hours making my way via Germany – flying to and overnighting in Frankfurt before embarking on five hours of train travel to reach the (three-way) border at Schengen. All this was in aid of a quixotic goal: to arrive in a new country not as a passenger, but as a pedestrian.
I at least had the sense to book a flight back out of LUX, making it the sixth airport I have departed from yet never arrived at. Through the magic of time zones, I arrived in London at the exact moment I had left Luxembourg. The hour in the air was just enough time to admire each city by night, enjoy a chicken tikka salad, read a bit of my book, and eavesdrop on my fellow passengers – Team GB athletes returning with medals from a powerlifting competition.
The accommodation
The classic room I had booked at Sofitel Luxembourg Le Grand Ducal would already have been my fanciest accommodation of the year, but on check-in I was upgraded to a room with what I was told was “a nicer view”. This turned out to be a spectacular understatement – the Petrusse valley and the historic city centre framed by the enormous window like an artwork.
The room had an interesting walk-through layout, maximising space and light by blurring the distinction between bathroom and bedroom (the shower was half in each). The bed was king size and extremely comfortable; the minibar was free; and there were little touches throughout the property that elevated it beyond my usual environs.
This was my first time at a Sofitel, but hopefully not my last! Hotels in Luxembourg seemed expensive; fortunately an airline staff discount meant I could stay here for less than the DoubleTree or Park Inn were asking. Public prices – for the classic room, not my superior with view – would have been a little over £200 per night at time of booking. Although those included breakfast, which would have added an eye-watering £60 to my rate, so I can offer no report on the restaurant…
The tourist attractions
Having resolved to see more of Luxembourg than just its capital, I realised that my busy country-crossing itinerary risked neglecting the sights of the city itself!
My arrival evening looked to have the only good weather of my short stay, so before getting too settled at the Sofitel I ventured back out for a wander. The hotel had provided me with a (digital) map of highlights, and I formulated a lazy two hour loop stringing some of them together.
Crossing the dramatic gorge via Pont Viaduc and making my way through the Cité Judiciaire, I lingered for a while at a viewpoint where the sounds of fountains, church bells and restaurant patrons mingled pleasantly together. Pressing on I was able to admire the Ducal Palace and a grand square in golden-hour light; joined crowds at a funfair beneath the Monument of Remembrance; and completed my tour via Pont Adolphe.
This short investigation revealed a charming city I’d be happy to return to. As always when adding to my country count, I am reluctant to think of my visit as the only one I’ll ever make! Whether flying over for a weekend minibreak or adding a stop to a European rail adventure, I think Luxembourg is well worth considering as a destination.
