Fewer than 700 of the most travelled people community have ticked off Sark, whilst NomadMania doesn’t even count the island as a region, instead listing it as a DARE entry. But with an afternoon to spare between our return ferry and flight, I was able to claim an even more obscure location, Herm. In many ways, this is a more extreme variation on Sark’s themes: a third the size; home to a tenth of the population; and subject to even more stringent transport rules, with not just motor vehicles but also bicycles banned.
I was surprised, then, to find that the ferry serving Herm from Guernsey is a more impressive vessel than those making the significantly longer trip to Sark. Trident V is a catamaran with two decks accommodating 250 passengers, and completes the journey in about 20 minutes (the exact landing point on Herm depends on the tides). All of this was reassuring after my rough ride back from Sark – I’m glad I braved the waters again, for these crossings were completely smooth. I was one of only a handful of people using the 15:15 departure, and possibly the only tourist: I’d have just two hours to look around before the final service back.
I wasn’t confident I could complete the full 4 mile circuit of Herm’s coastline in time, so I prioritised the north of the island. This offers very different terrain to Sark – meadows, dunes, and beaches which owe their colour not to sand, but tiny fragments of shells. Amazingly, I had the whole area to myself – which might explain why the shell beach café closes at 4. Things were busier back at the port, with quite a crowd needing to head back to Guernsey – there’s only one hotel and a handful of cottages by way of accommodation on Herm, although it seems popular for camping.
Staying somewhere so small overnight definitely appeals, and I’d happily return to explore further. But for now I’ll count this short excursion as a minimal visit, placing Herm firmly at the top of my most difficult MTP locations list. (Sark comes in third, with the Outer Hebrides holding second place). I was saddened to learn that its even more diminutive neighbour Jethou has been closed to the public for over 50 years, so if I want to add to my channel islands collection, I’ll have to tackle Alderney next…
