With several days for sightseeing after the Beltane festivities, we were able to make a comprehensive tour of Sark. Although our own sequence differed, here are some of the highlights, from top to bottom.
L’Eperquerie
I had an aerial preview of this northernmost part of the island on the flight to Guernsey, and was able to admire it from sea level during the boat ride to Sark. This is one of Scarlett’s favourite spots, and after exploring on foot I’d have to agree. Green paths have been mown into the undulating headland, with splashes of colour from daisies, gorse, sea pinks, foxgloves, and bluebells. We spotted various landmarks – a historic landing point, guarded by a cannon; a buddhist mantra, carved into a large granite boulder; a tiny islet, La Grune – but almost no people, meeting just two other hikers in as many hours. Goats were more numerous, and better suited to the rockier terrain at the tip of the island.
La Seigneurie
Sark has been lorded over by a Seigneur since the 16th century, as head of a feudal system of government that only underwent democratic reforms as recently as 2008. The Seigneurie is the residence of the Seigneur, but the gardens are open to the public. Our Beltane celebrations were held within the grounds, both the daytime events on the archery lawn and evening entertainments in a tent alongside the house. I was even able to spot the Seigneur himself on the second night, when organisers and performers gathered for a communal meal and an impromptu jam session (with singing, guitar, cornet and spoons!)
Port du Moulin
This pebble beach on the northwest of the island was another idyllic spot we somehow had to ourselves for an afternoon. It’s accessed via a woodland walk which you can preface with the path to the window in the rock (which overlooks it).
Once the sun had moved around, we took the more demanding hike south, leading up to a clifftop known locally as Tintagel. Here we were rewarded with even better views along the rugged coastline – and quite the suntrap.
The Harbours
Sark’s ports are located on the east of the island. The Maseline harbour is where the ferries to and from Guernsey operate, whilst the Creux harbour is mostly for fishing vessels. The Non Pareil – a wooden, locally-built boat which had been used for tours for over 40 years – sadly wrecked in 2023, but we had hoped to take a ride on its replacement, The Dorado. Unfortunately during our visit it was out of the water until later in the season – one to claim on a future trip.
Dixcart Lane
Along this lane to the south of the island you can find some of Sark’s fancier accommodations – Le Grand Dixcart, and Stocks Hotel. Further east is Hugo’s Bar and Bistro, where I had the best meal of our stay. We had made a reservation earlier in the day – generally advisable on Sark, as there’s not a huge number of restaurants, but particularly so here as it’s a relatively remote location. We dined here on the way back from Little Sark, which is a good pairing – especially as the heavens opened just as we reached Dixcart, and being able to take shelter in the bar rather than have to bike back to the village was much appreciated.
Sark Henge
From Creux we branched off of the steep harbour hill for a more southerly path. This lead us to Derrible headland and bay, where you can also find Sark Henge. Although a modern monument, it has a number of numerological / astrological connections. The 9 marker stones – old gate posts collected from around Sark – correspond to the nine medieval territories the island was originally partitioned into (and if you divide the 360 degrees of a circle by 9 you get 40, which is the number of tenements). Meanwhile, four of the stones have been aligned with sunrise or sunset on the solstices and equinoxes. Apparently there are other secret meanings to the Henge too!
La Coupée
This narrow isthmus offers a vertiginous link between the two Sarks (Great and Little): the path is just three metres wide, with cliffs plunging 90 metres to the waters below. It was even more daunting before the railings were added in 1900: children would crawl across in high winds. Even today, with a paved surface, we were required to walk our bikes over rather than cycle across.
This is one of Sark’s most photographed sites, and as our first encounter was marred by rain I came back later in the week for better shots. I also tackled the steep staircase to and from Grande Grève beach and, less taxingly, sampled the wares of nearby Caragh Chocolates, whose creations are hand-made using rich local milk.
Little Sark
Sark’s southern peninsula is its most remote corner, with just La Sablonnerie by way of accommodation or dining (which, at the time of our visit, was closed). There are only two roads, so we soon had to hide our bikes in a bush and set out on foot. A dramatic cliff-top coastal path runs from the Adonis to Venus pools (both natural formations) via the remnants of silver mines. Also of note is the Dolmen, a megalithic tomb thousands of years old – and just large enough to shelter two adventurers from a sudden downpour!
